How to Lay Up a Sailboat for Winter Storage: Free Haul Out Checklist

Hauling your sailboat out for winter storage? Wondering exactly what to do before leaving it on the hard stand for winter?

So were we.

After several seasons sailing the Mediterranean, two boats and plenty of mistakes, this is the practical haul-out routine we’ve developed as part of our overall maintenance routines.

This guide is written primarily for decommissioning a sailboat stored ashore in the relatively mild Mediterranean. It’s a working checklist covering jobs general to most sailboats including sails, rigging, engine, plumbing and cleaning.

It’s not a substitute for the manuals for your engine, watermaker, batteries or other equipment. Storage afloat and freezing climates require additional measures.

Sailboat Winter Haul-Out Checklist: 21 Steps to Prepare a Sailboat for Storage

Step 1: Take Down the Sails

Time & difficulty: 1–3 hours · Moderate

Choose a calm, dry day, ideally while the boat is still afloat. Take down the genoa and any staysail, then inspect the cloth, stitching, UV strips and attachment points for damage that could be repaired over winter. Rinse salt from the sails where necessary and allow them to dry completely before folding or rolling and bagging them.

On our previous boat we left our in-mast furling mainsail inside the mast and protected the exposed clew. That was a compromise, not a universal recommendation: removing the mainsail gives you the chance to clean it and to inspect it properly and reduces the risk of damage during severe weather. Follow the sailmaker’s advice and your yard’s storage rules. Label sail bags so spring rigging is painless.

Step 2: Remove, Wash and Store Running Rigging

Time & difficulty: 30 minutes–2 hours · Moderate

Lines left exposed to winter sun, salt and rain will generally age faster. Remove the genoa and mainsheets, reefing lines and any other easily removable running rigging. Soak salt-stiffened ropes in fresh water, wash with a rope-safe product if necessary, rinse well and dry fully before storage. A mild fabric softener is something we have used, but only where the rope manufacturer allows it; avoid products that can change rope grip or damage fibres.

If taking down halyards, attach a continuous, secure messenger (mouse) line before pulling them through, then label both ends. You do not need to strip every line from the boat—consider exposure, ease of removal, and the consequences of making a mistake when re-rigging.

Step 3: Check Furlers, Winches and Deck Hardware

Time & difficulty: 1–3 hours · Moderate

Before everything disappears under the cover, inspect the mainsail and headsail furling systems for binding, corrosion or frayed lines. Rinse away salt and lubricate only at the points specified by the manufacturer. Do not indiscriminately grease furling bearings, many of which are sealed or require a particular lubricant.

Give winches at least a freshwater clean and note any that need a proper strip-down, cleaning and lubrication. We have separated those jobs on our own list: the main furler still needs attention, and we have scheduled the bigger winch service for the next season. Also check tracks, blocks, shackles and split pins.

Step 4: Secure the Boom, Traveler and Canvas

Time & difficulty: 30–60 minutes · Simple

Lock or lash the boom in a stable position and secure the vang, mainsheet and traveller so they cannot swing or chafe in a winter gale. Take down or firmly secure the bimini, sprayhood and other canvas; clean, dry and store removable panels wherever possible.

Check straps, zips, windows and stitching while you have time to arrange repairs. A loose canvas panel or unrestrained boom is not something you want the yard dealing with in a storm.

Step 5: Clean the Anchor, Chain and Locker

Time & difficulty: 30–60 minutes · Moderate

Wash salt and mud off the anchor and chain, clear the locker drain and check for damaged links, rusty fittings, loose shackles and worn snubber connections. We like to take the weight off the windlass and secure the anchor positively for storage.

Some yards prefer the chain lowered onto a clean pallet; others require it aboard. Ask before laying it on the ground, and never leave a chain connecting the boat directly to the ground without considering vermin access. Clean and store the snubber, bridle and chain hook.

Step 6: Prevent Diesel Fuel Problems
Time & difficulty: 20–40 minutes · Simple

Check the fuel level and the condition of the diesel, inspect the primary filter or water separator, and deal with any water or contamination before the boat is left unattended. The traditional advice is to store a diesel tank nearly full to reduce condensation, but tank design, fuel type, local conditions and the time afloat can change the best approach.

Use a biocide or stabiliser only if appropriate for your fuel and according to the label; they are not substitutes for removing water or treating actual contamination. We keep a note of fuel-system issues to address before relaunch.Step 7: Service the Inboard Diesel Engine

Time & difficulty: 1–3 hours · Moderate to advanced

Complete the service items that are actually due according to the engine manual. For us that means oil and filter changes, checking the primary and secondary fuel filters, inspecting belts, hoses, clamps, mounts, coolant level and any existing leaks. An oil change is generally best carried out with warm oil, before the boat is fully shut down, and the engine should be run and checked for leaks afterwards while a safe cooling-water supply is available.

Check the raw-water pump impeller for cracking, deformation or missing vanes. Whether you remove it for storage or replace it in spring depends on the engine and pump guidance; label any removed impeller clearly. Also check gearbox oil and any outstanding repair jobs. Do not use aerosol fogging oil in the intake of a running diesel as if it were a petrol outboard.

Step 8: Freshwater-Flush the Engine Raw-Water Circuit

Time & difficulty: 20–40 minutes · Moderate

This is one of the instructions we have changed since publishing our original article. Rather than pouring water into an open strainer and hoping the level keeps up, we disconnect the engine raw-water intake hose on the engine side of its seacock and place the end in a clean bucket. A separate freshwater hose continuously feeds that bucket while the engine draws water from it. The bucket acts as a visible reservoir, so we can check that the intake is never starved.

Only do this where the manufacturer allows it and the yard permits engine operation ashore. Close the seacock, secure the intake hose below the bucket’s waterline, prime if necessary, ensure there is adequate water at all times, and confirm water is exiting the exhaust. Start and run the engine only as long as appropriate for the flush; stop immediately if the bucket level drops, suction is lost, exhaust flow fails or the engine overheats. Never connect a pressurised hose directly to the pump intake unless the manufacturer specifies that procedure.

For places where freezing is possible, fresh water alone is not sufficient protection. Follow the particular engine’s procedure for draining or using the correct marine antifreeze in the raw-water side, and separately check the closed coolant circuit. Restore or clearly tag the intake connection and keep the seacock closed for dry storage.

Step 9: Service and Store the Outboard

Time & difficulty: 1–2 hours · Moderate

Flush the outboard through its specified flushing attachment or in a suitable freshwater tank, ensuring the pump is supplied correctly; a small outboard must never be run dry. Check the gear oil for signs of water, inspect the propeller and anodes, and complete any scheduled engine-oil or spark-plug service.

For petrol engines, follow the maker’s storage procedure for the fuel system; that might mean treated fuel or emptying the carburettor, not simply letting every engine run until it stalls. Fogging is appropriate only if the maker recommends it. Rinse the exterior, let the cooling circuit drain, and store the outboard upright and securely.

Step 10: Clean, Dry and Store the Tender and Loose Deck Gear

Time & difficulty: 45–90 minutes · Simple

Scrub and rinse the inflatable tender, inspect seams, valves and floorboards, and let it dry before deflating or storing according to its design. Wash fenders, mooring lines, hooks and spare deck gear with fresh water, dry them and put them out of the weather.

Check chafe points and note damaged equipment for replacement rather than discovering problems while trying to launch next year.

Step 11: Empty and Clean the Bilge

Time & difficulty: 30–90 minutes · Simple

Remove debris and any standing water, identify the source of recurring leaks and clean the lowest compartments you can reach. Test the bilge pump and float switch before shutting anything down. If the bilge is oily or contaminated, collect the waste for proper disposal instead of pumping it overboard.

Finally sponge or vacuum out the remaining water. A dry bilge makes it much easier for the yard or a caretaker to spot a new leak during winter.

Step 12: Pump Out and Flush Toilets and Holding Tanks

Time & difficulty: 30–60 minutes · Moderate

Empty the holding tanks at an authorised pump-out station and rinse them thoroughly. Flush marine toilets and associated lines according to the toilet and hose manufacturer’s instructions. Where safe and suitable, fresh water will remove a lot of the salt left after using seawater.

Our old article recommended a blanket 50/50 vinegar flush. We would no longer treat that as a universal procedure: strong or prolonged acid treatment can damage parts, and some products react dangerously with other cleaning chemicals. Never combine acids with chlorine or bleach, and follow the equipment and descaler instructions. Leave systems in the required drained or protected condition.

Step 13: Drain or Protect Freshwater Tanks and Plumbing

Time & difficulty: 30–90 minutes · Moderate

Decide whether to drain or sanitise potable-water tanks based on your storage climate, tank material and manufacturer’s guidance. For our Mediterranean lay-up, we generally drain the tanks and then open the taps briefly to relieve pressure and empty accessible lines, rather than leaving large volumes of untreated water sitting for months.

Do not run a diaphragm pump dry for an extended period: stop when it stops delivering water, and drain low points manually where possible. Drain and bypass the calorifier or water heater if the system requires it, and clean and dry the shower sump. In a freezing climate, properly winterise the vulnerable piping and water heater with an approved method and a potable-water-system product where specified.

Step 14: Pickle the Watermaker

Time & difficulty: 30–90 minutes · Moderate

If you have a reverse-osmosis watermaker, preservation is a separate job—not just an extension of the freshwater-tank clean. First follow the normal freshwater flush, then circulate the approved storage solution through the system as directed by its manufacturer. A sodium-metabisulfite solution may be used by some units, but the concentration, water quality, circulation route and storage interval are specific to the machine.

For ours, this meant paying close attention to the three-way valve, flush circuit, filter housing and whether the preservation solution actually reached the membrane. Do not operate a high-pressure pump without the correct flow or attempt to diagnose a stuck gauge by running it against an unknown pressure. Label the system with the date and chemical used, and note when preservation must be renewed.

Step 15: Deep-Clean the Interior and Fridge

Time & difficulty: 3–4 hours · Moderate

Empty cupboards, remove all perishables and opened food, wipe crumbs from crevices and clean the galley, cabins and heads from bow to stern. Wash and completely dry the fridge and freezer, then leave their doors propped open.

Open lockers to permit airflow, and secure loose tools and supplies. The aim is to leave neither food for pests nor damp surfaces for mould to develop on.

Step 16: Prevent Moisture, Mould and Leaks

Time & difficulty: 30–90 minutes · Moderate

Inspect hatches, ports, deck fittings and other known leak points, then arrange appropriate repairs. We have had water enter around windows and timber trim, so stopping rainwater is far more useful than simply putting out more moisture absorbers.

Clean existing mould with a product suitable for the affected surface and dry thoroughly; avoid indiscriminately spraying vinegar onto every material or mixing cleaning chemicals. Stand cushions on their edges, remove damp bedding, and open access panels for ventilation. Moisture absorbers can help, but they do not solve leaks or replace effective ventilation.

Step 17: Wash the Deck, Topsides and Cockpit Drains

Time & difficulty: 1–3 hours · Simple

Rinse salt off decks, stainless hardware, windows and topsides. Clear cockpit and locker drains of leaves, grit and other debris, and check that water can escape freely while the boat is covered.

Inspect external fittings, stanchions and any storm damage. This is also a good opportunity to examine the hull below the waterline, propeller, shaft, rudder, anodes and through-hulls after haul-out, recording issues that need yard work.

Step 18: Set Up Batteries and Electrical Systems for Storage

Time & difficulty: 30–60 minutes · Moderate

Turn off unnecessary consumers, unplug portable equipment, isolate nonessential breakers, and disconnect shore power if that matches the boat and yard’s agreed arrangement. Check charging sources, solar-controller settings and wind-generator shutdown procedures so no equipment is left in an unsafe state.

Our current boat has lithium iron phosphate house batteries, so the old advice to fully charge every battery and disconnect all negative terminals is not appropriate as a blanket rule. Follow the battery and BMS manufacturer’s recommended storage state of charge, isolation method and temperature limits; lead-acid batteries have different requirements. If you need bilge monitoring or alarms powered, confirm exactly what remains energised and how it will be supported.

Step 19: Check Seacocks and Safety Equipment

Time & difficulty: 30–60 minutes · Moderate

Exercise and inspect seacocks while the boat is accessible, then close those not required for storage. Make a clear record of what is closed and what must be reopened before engine start or launch. Check through-hull fittings for signs of leakage or corrosion.

Inspect lifejackets and their inflation mechanisms, expiry or service dates for flares, fire extinguishers and the EPIRB. Store or service each item according to the maker’s recommendations and yard arrangements. Winter lay-up is an ideal time to organise liferaft and rigging inspections too.

Step 20: Protect the Boat from Pests and Fit Covers

Time & difficulty: 45–90 minutes · Simple

With food removed, check likely entry points and any lines that connect the boat to the ground. Fit suitable rodent guards where needed. Protect vents and openings against insects or nesting birds without blocking drainage, required ventilation or safety-critical openings. Any temporary plugs or covers must be visibly tagged and listed for removal before recommissioning.

Fit a well-secured cover or tarp that sheds rain, cannot pool water and does not chafe or strain fittings. Protect the cockpit and instruments, but leave safe ventilation and access for necessary checks. Ask the yard how storm inspections and cover adjustments will be handled.

Step 21: Do the Final Lay-Up Walkthrough

Time & difficulty: 20–40 minutes · Simple

Before leaving, walk through the entire boat with your checklist. Verify that the bilge is dry, the engine intake and other seacocks are set as intended, water and gas systems are isolated as appropriate, and the batteries and chargers are in their agreed storage configuration.

Check every hatch, locker, line, fender and cover, then lock the companionway and leave the yard with any access instructions and a list of outstanding maintenance jobs. Take photos of key controls, labels and the boat on the hard. A spring recommissioning list should reverse the temporary changes—including reconnecting the raw-water intake hose, reopening appropriate seacocks, removing vent plugs and checking the engine before starting.

A few jobs to save for spring

Not every item needs to be completed during decommissioning. Our own list includes winch servicing, furler work, repairs to canvas and windows and checks of outstanding yard jobs. Record these now, but make the relaunch checklist the place where you verify the work and restore everything that was isolated, drained or removed.

Before you leave the yard

Print the checklist, walk the boat one final time, and keep a photo of the final configuration. If you have a favorite winter lay-up tip, let us know in the comments—we keep improving this list every season.

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