The Towns of the Colombian Coffee Region

We love coffee.

One of the few possessions that we didn’t leave behind when we set out on our van life adventure through South America was our Bialetti moka pot. Our big pot makes a big pour of strong, dark coffee. We start our day with a couple of pots each morning, not stopping until we’ve well and truly got the jitters.

While our daily brew is usually as much about getting out of bed as about savoring the flavor, we were excited to visit Colombia’s coffee belt and, perhaps, to refine our coffee palette in one of the world’s premier coffee-growing regions.

What is Colombia’s Coffee Belt?

The picturesque Colombian Coffee Belt is a region that encompasses the departments of Caldas, Quindío, Risaralda, and parts of Tolima and Valle del Cauca. Here, in the country’s coffee triangle, Colombia’s rich volcanic soils, the elevations of the Andean foothills, and the warm, wet climates provide slight variations on the ‘perfect’ coffee growing conditions.

Beans are grown on steep, green mountainsides in crops scattered with bananas, plantain, piña, guava, avocado, and cocoa. The terrain requires handpicking, which ensures only the ripest beans are reaped.

The drive through the Colombian coffee region is special. Green hills covered with tropical fruits and palms roll on and on under deep blue skies and fluffy white clouds from Cali all the way to Medellín.

The Towns of the Colombian Coffee Triangle

The colorful colonial towns that punctuate the drive through this region are all laid out in a similar fashion. A grid expands from a central town square facing a church. The unique buildings take their cues from Spanish-influenced Paisa architecture. Houses and tiendas are painted in pastels of every color.

Equally bright, ‘Willys’, painted military jeeps mostly from the ’60s and ’70s, are the vehicle of choice for local farmers. Willy’s are the perfect vehicle for traversing the steep terrain.

The bright towns, the colorful jeeps, and the equally colorful local campesinos astride horses or relaxing outside the bars and cafés that line the plaza give the distinct sensation of stepping back into an alternate pastel history. 

When we set out to discover Colombia’s coffee region, the biggest challenge was choosing which of theses villages, dotted around the green countryside, we would visit.

We picked two lesser-known coffee towns in the region of Pijoa and Buena Vista, located in the Quindío department, on our way up through Colombia, and the popular Jardín, in the Antioquia region, to break up the return journey.

Pijao

Known for its commitment to the “slow city” movement, Pijao is an excellent place for visitors who are interested in sustainable coffee production and enjoying life at a leisurely pace.

While Pijao is not a major hot spot on Colombia’s coffee circuit, this tiny town has everything you want and nothing you don’t.

The small town straddles a small river in a picturesque valley.

We camped in our van down by the river. Within five minutes of arriving, Hugo, a friendly local, invited us for coffee, a good sign that tourism hadn’t yet made the townspeople cynical. The following day, Hugo brought us more coffee and some sweet bread rolls donated by another local. This warm welcome was something we had encountered throughout Colombia, but especially in the smaller villages.

We spent our days in Pijao walking the banks of the river and along dirt roads that wound up and down the valley. The mountains provided spectacular views up the river to the next village, Córdoba, and back over Pijao.

Aside from the coffee and wandering around, there wasn’t much else to do in Pijao, which suited us perfectly. We entertained ourselves by taking photos, walking, and plenty of coffee breaks.

Buenavista

True to its name, Buenavista offers some of the best views in Quindío. It’s smaller and quieter than some of the other towns but is a perfect spot for those looking to escape the crowds and enjoy their cuppa in peace.

After two days in the sleepy Pijao, we woke early to drive some 30 minutes to Buenavista. Like Pijao, the town was centered around an ornate church in the main plaza. Gridded streets of brightly painted houses and shops extending from this central point.

Unlike Pijoa, Buenavista was built on top of the hill rather than at the bottom of it. Incredible green views of Colombia’s coffee region stretch out in every direction.

Here, we took a tour of a local finca Hanes Coffee with Don Leo.

Jardín

Famous for its beautiful landscapes and colonial charm, we were drawn to the vibrant local culture of this (comparatively) bustling town, as well as the great restaurants and range of activities on offer, such as biking, cable car rides, paragliding, and course, coffee.

Bigger than the smaller coffee towns we had visited, Jardín is a staple on the Colombian coffee region’s tourist circuit. The first sign of this was the opportunity to share the derelict roads with big tour buses in addition to the normal trucks, cars, and livestock.

We arrived at Jardín right at nightfall in heavy rain.  Our first observation was that this high-altitude town had used almost every square inch of land reclaimed from the mountain.

We camped on the outskirts of town but Jardín has plenty of accomodation to suit a range of styles and budgets.

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Salento

Perhaps the most famous coffee town, Salento, is known for its colorful architecture, traditional crafts, and proximity to the Cocora Valley. The town also offers numerous coffee farm tours where visitors can learn about the journey from bean to cup.

Salento is also popular for the lush rainforest and beautiful waterfalls that surround the town, such as the nearby Cocora Valley and Cascada Bosque de Niebla, one of Colombia’s most spectacular waterfalls.

Filandia

A picturesque town with stunning views of the Quindío landscape, Filandia is less touristy than Salento but equally charming. With its calm streets and friendly locals, it offers a genuine feel of the coffee culture.

Manizales

This city is the capital of Caldas and is deeply entrenched in the history and production of coffee. Manizales provides a more urban feel but still offers access to numerous coffee plantations and the annual International Coffee Cultural Festival.

Chinchiná

Located in Caldas, Chinchiná is home to one of Colombia’s national coffee research centers. The town is crucial for anyone interested in the scientific aspects of coffee cultivation and production.

Other Coffee Towns in Colombia’s Coffee Region

While these towns are the most well-known, other towns worth checking out include;

• Armenia – The capital of Quindío, this city serves as a commercial center in the region and offers urban amenities alongside traditional coffee culture experiences.
• Pereira – One of the larger cities in the region, Pereira offers a mix of urban life and easy access to surrounding coffee farms. It’s an excellent base for exploring the region.
• Santa Rosa de Cabal – Known for its hot springs and beautiful natural surroundings, Santa Rosa de Cabal is a great place to relax after visiting the local coffee plantations.
• Montenegro – Home to the National Coffee Park, Montenegro offers a blend of entertainment and education, making it perfect for families looking to learn about coffee in a fun environment.
• Quimbaya – Known for its cultural activities and the Panaca agricultural park, Quimbaya blends coffee culture with family-oriented attractions.
• La Tebaida – Situated close to the El Edén International Airport, La Tebaida offers convenient access for international tourists and provides a laid-back atmosphere.
• Marsella – This town is notable for its well-preserved historical architecture and coffee museum, which offers insights into the history of coffee in the region.
• Apía – Less known but emerging as an eco-tourism destination, Apía offers beautiful landscapes and a peaceful environment ideal for enjoying the natural aspects of the coffee zone.
• Riosucio – Famous for its unique biennial Carnival of the Devil, Riosucio also offers a vibrant cultural experience alongside its coffee production.
• Dosquebradas – Although more industrial, Dosquebradas serves as a crucial part of the coffee logistics network and has urban amenities and services supporting the coffee industry.

Colombia Coffee Tours, Tastings, and Experiences

Touring the beautiful mountain towns here would be well worth it, even without the coffee. But, since you are here, we highly recommend taking in some of the coffee experiences on offer here to peek behind the curtain into the fascinating world of Colombian coffee production.

The Colombian coffee process is rustic rather than industrial, carried out on family-owned fincas (farms) using traditional methods, What’s more, the colorful characters producing the coffee generally have a few stories to tell about their lives in the coffee trade here.

Coffee Tastings

There are many opportunities to sample locally produced coffee throughout the coffee region.

In Pijao, we sampled locally grown coffee at Café De Origen La Floresta, which is owned by Don Carlos, a local coffee farmer.

The preparation of the locally grown beans takes on the significance and gravity of a sacred ritual.

Don Carlos gave us a brief overview of the local region and his finca, or farm. He presented three types of beans and explained the process behind each style and flavor profile. We selected two different varieties for tasting. The beans were ground and then returned to the table to be brewed. We savored the fresh, carefully picked, and prepared coffee, along with the ritual.

Experiences like these are available in the various towns throughout the region and give an insight into the ceremony around coffee here.

Coffee Farm Tours

To dig a little deeper into the history, tradition, and culture of the region, take a tour of one of the many coffee farms.

In Beauna Vista we took a tour of one of the local coffee farms, Finca Alsacia, producers of Hane Coffee.

Our guide Don Leo began the tour in the town center. We chatted as we walked down the steep hill to his farm.

Between bird spotting and descriptions of the local flora, Don Leo took the opportunity to tell us about Colombia’s coffee region’s history.

Specifically, he told us about the development of coffee farming and the struggle with the Colombian guerillas.

He also covered his own colorful history. From a small boy growing up in the area, where boys as young as 10 were put to work. Where they not only worked but drank and smoked with the older men too.

Later Don Leo was recruited (or rather duped) into farming marijuana. Eventually, he worked a stint as a cocaine chemist for the cartel. A daring escape allowed his eventual return to the region. Now, he has established his own socially responsible farm, committed to supporting workers’ rights, which are slowly being eroded by larger corporate interests.

We eventually reached his farm. Tropical fruits, piña, avocado, guava, banana, plantain, as well as marijuana grow amongst thousands of coffee plants on a steep-sided hill. The trees provide shade and nutrients for the coffee crop and provide a unique flavor profile.

After visiting the crop, coffee production is covered from harvest to table. Beans are sorted into grades and sent to the Federación Nacional de Cafeteros, which buys and exports the coffee. The coffee is sorted as Supremo or Excelso quality for exportation to the rest of the world. The foremost criterion for these grades is the size of the bean, after which other criteria may be considered.

Don Leo explains that selecting beans only based on their size is rudimentary and not a true indication of quality. The beans that he and other farmers send to the federations as the highest-quality Colombian export coffee are done so after the best beans have already been skimmed for in-house coffee production. The finest quality Colombian coffee is only available from small-scale farms like this.

After sampling the coffee, we purchased a few bags to bring back as souvenirs. We enjoyed the simple lunch that Don Leo also provides his farm workers. It was a fascinating look into the region and the coffee farming industry that this area is so famous for.

Parque del Café

Touristy? Yes. Fun? Sure.

Located in Montenegro, Quindío, Parque del Café is an amusement park, working coffee plantation, and museum dedicated to the history and tradition of Colombia’s coffee production. Especially popular with families, the park offers a blend of entertainment and education, set amongst the lush landscapes for which this region is famous.

Other Things to Do in the Coffee Region

While learning about coffee production and sampling enough coffee to turn you into a jittering mess are top of the agenda, there is lots more to dohere. Here are some of the most popular activities.

Bird Watching

Did you know that Colombia has more species of birds than any other country? Including some unique beauties. There are ample opportunities to spot birds in the wild or visit some of the area’s aviaries.

Cock-of-the-Rock Jardín

On our final day in Jardín, around sun set, we walked down and out of the town, 2 blocks or so, to the Parque Natural Jardín de Rocas. A tiny bird reserve that was home to 10 Rupicolas commonly known as the ‘Cock-of-the-Rock’.

Kelli is an avid bird watcher. Do not take that to mean she knows about birds or will hike miles into the wilderness with binoculars and a little book to find birds. However, if there is a bird in her vicinity, she struggles to focus on anything else. Living in Amsterdam, this mostly meant chasing around oddly behaved pigeons.

Somehow, she found out about the Cock-of-the-Rock, a bright orange bird with a quaff found throughout South America. Nothing would stop us from seeing it. We had already woken up at 4.30 am that morning with the intent of seeking out the Cock-of-the-Rock, but the rain had kept us in the van.

Just before sundown, we reached the reserve to try our luck. Kelli had already made it clear that should we not see it we would be returning here every day, morning and night until we did. Thankfully upon our arrival, it became clear that the birds were out and about for all to see. We were able to photograph several.

Paragliding

The mountainous coffee region is perfect for paragliding, and tours are available from many of the major towns. We organized a paragliding experience in Jardín.

From the town, we jumped in the back of a neon green jeep. The car couldn’t have been less than 40 years old. Reggaeton blared out the self-installed speakers precariously dangling by its own cord from the roof of the jeep. Up and up we climbed out of Jardín on what was presumably at one point roads but had now become deep trenches thanks to the 2500mm of rain that falls here annually.

Eventually, we reached the top. We were high above Jardín, at least we assumed. The thick cloud would only clear for seconds at a time to provide glimpses of the town below.

After the world’s shortest briefing which consisted of our tandem paragliding guides telling us, in broken English, we would walk and then run and then sit, we were strapped up to our respective experts and waited for a clearing in the clouds.

Kelli, feeling nervous, elected to go first. After launching off the hillside, we glided within spitting distance of the mountain beside us, cruising over dense forest, twisting and turning our way down. Every now and then I would catch a glimpse of Kelli in the distance before one of us was engulfed in the thick white cloud again.

Eventually, we turned away from the mountain and soared toward the town, over the streets and houses and eventually directly over the main town square and Jardín’s impressive cathedral before making our final turn back toward the town’s outskirts and down to the “landing strip,” where we unceremoniously slid on our behinds through the mud to a stop.

Los Nevados National Natural Park

This diverse park encompasses many ecosystems, including lagoons, rivers, glaciers, and snow-capped peaks. It is also home to a diverse variety of flora and fauna.

Valle Del Cocora

Within the Los Nevados National Natural Park, on the upper reaches of the Quindío River, the Valle del Cocora is one of Colombia’s most iconic sites. The wax palms that sit in this picturesque valley have become emblematic of the region. Hiking trails provide visitors with views of the palms and the surrounding beauty.

Sample the Other Produce of The Region

While coffee beans might be the most famous, the rich farming land of Colombia’s coffee belt grows more than coffee.

The region is a significant producer of bananas, plantains, citrus fruits, avocados, cacao, and sugar cane. It also cultivates corn, beans, and a variety of tropical fruits like passionfruit, guava, and papaya. The region supports a thriving flower export market and practices aquaculture.

Enjoy the Local Cuisine

The food here is exceptional as a result of the incredible produce and the Antioqueña tradition. Local specialties include trout, sanchoco (a stew of yucca and meat), local chorizo, and bakery treats like buñuelos.

One of the best meal s we enjoyed was the Colombian staple bandeje paise, Following our paragliding adventure in Jardin, as the adrenalin began to wear off, we realized how hungry we were and we stopped off in town for brekky.

Bandaje Paise is Colombia’s answer to the full English breakfast and gives it a real run for its money. On a huge platter, you will find rice, frijoles (beans), fried plantain, arepa (Colombian cornbread), fries, chorizo, fried chicharrón (fatty delicious pork), an egg, and avocado. At $5 or $6 USD, the Bandeje Paise is more expensive than other options, but one platter is definitely enough for two.

Termales de Santa Rosa

These natural hot baths are a great place to relax after exploring the mountainous coffee region. Termales Santa Rosa de Cabal offers its visitors thermal pools, waterfalls, and spa facilities. There is a hotel on site, but day passes are also available.

People Watching in the Plazas

The town plazas in this region are still the focal point of the local community, a place for meeting and socializing.

In any of the towns here, head toward the center plaza, find a perch at a local cafe, bar, or restaurant, and watch life in the mountains hum along.

Colombia Coffee Region Itinerary

We recommend creating your own itinerary based on the towns, attractions, and activities outlined above. To get you started, here is an example itinerary of some of the region’s most popular things to do.

Day 1: Arrival in Pereira

• Morning: Arrive in Pereira, one of the main cities in the Coffee Region. Check into your hotel and take some time to relax.
• Afternoon: Explore the city center of Pereira. Visit the Bolivar Plaza, the Cathedral of Our Lady of Poverty, and the Lucy Tejada Cultural Center.
• Evening: Enjoy dinner at a local restaurant featuring traditional Colombian cuisine.

Day 2: Salento and Cocora Valley

• Morning: Travel to Salento, a colorful town known for its preserved Bahareque architecture. Start with a traditional Colombian breakfast in one of the town’s quaint cafes.
• Midday: Take a Willy Jeep ride from Salento to Cocora Valley, famous for its towering wax palm trees, the national tree of Colombia. Enjoy a hike through the valley, which offers various trails suitable for different fitness levels.
• Afternoon: Return to Salento. Spend the afternoon exploring the craft shops and the Calle Real. Try the region’s trout, a local specialty, for lunch.
• Evening: Head back to Pereira for overnight or stay in Salento to enjoy more of the town’s peaceful evening atmosphere.

Day 3: Coffee Farm Visit and Filandia

• Morning: Visit a working coffee farm near Salento to learn about coffee cultivation and production processes. Participate in a coffee tasting session.
• Afternoon: Travel to Filandia, another picturesque town in the region. Explore its colorful streets and visit the viewpoint, Mirador Colina Iluminada, for panoramic views.
• Evening: Enjoy dinner at a local restaurant in Filandia, then return to your accommodation in Pereira or Salento.

Day 4: Jardín

• Morning: Early travel to Jardín, a town renowned for its beauty and charm. Take a guided tour of the town, visiting the Basilica of the Immaculate Conception and enjoying the lively town square.
• Afternoon: Visit a local coffee shop to enjoy a leisurely cup of coffee while watching the town’s everyday life. Optionally, take a cable car ride or a paragliding adventure for stunning views of the surrounding mountains and coffee plantations.
• Evening: Have dinner at a local restaurant in Jardín before returning to your hotel.

Day 5: Buenavista and Armenia

• Morning: Head to Buenavista, aptly named for its “good views”. Enjoy a relaxed morning at a café with stunning vistas over the coffee landscape or take a tour at Hanes Coffee.
• Afternoon: Travel to Pijao, the little town in the valley and sample some more local coffee at Café De Origen La Floresta.
• Evening: Travel to Armenia, the capital of Quindío, spend your evening exploring Armenia’s dining scene and stay overnight.

Day 6: Departure

• Morning: Depending on your flight schedule, you might have time for visiting the Quindío Botanical Garden and Butterfly House to see a variety of local flora and fauna. Enjoy some last-minute shopping in Armenia, picking up coffee and handicrafts to take home.
• Afternoon: Depart from the Armenia airport.

Colombia coffee region map

Here are some of the towns and attractions mentioned in this post to help you plan your own Colombia Coffee region adventure.

How to Get to the Colombia Coffee Region

Reaching Colombia’s Coffee Region, known for its lush landscapes and rich coffee culture, is relatively straightforward due to its accessibility from major cities and its importance as a tourist destination. Here’s a guide on how to get there:

International Arrival

Most international visitors will arrive in Colombia through one of its major airports in Bogotá (El Dorado International Airport), Medellín (José María Córdova International Airport), or Cali (Alfonso Bonilla Aragón International Airport). From these cities, you can connect to the Coffee Region via domestic flights or overland travel.

Domestic Flights

The main airports serving the Coffee Region are:

• Matecaña International Airport in Pereira: Pereira is often considered the gateway to the Coffee Region. There are frequent flights from Bogotá, Medellín, and Cali, with the flight from Bogotá taking about 45 minutes.
• El Edén International Airport in Armenia: This airport also receives flights from major Colombian cities, including direct flights from Bogotá which take about an hour.
• La Nubia Airport in Manizales: This airport has less frequent service due to its smaller size and the challenging weather conditions that can affect flights, but it’s another option for reaching Manizales directly.

Overland Travel

Traveling by bus or rental car is a popular option for those who prefer to see more of the countryside:

• From Bogotá: The trip by bus can take approximately 6-8 hours to Pereira or Armenia, depending on the route and traffic conditions. The roads are well-maintained, and the journey showcases beautiful landscapes.
• From Medellín: A bus to Pereira or Manizales takes about 4-6 hours. This route is particularly scenic, winding through the mountains of Antioquia.
• From Cali: It takes around 3-4 hours to reach Armenia by bus, crossing the Cauca Valley and then climbing into the cooler elevations of the Coffee Region.

Car Rental

Renting a car gives you the flexibility to explore the region at your own pace. The roads between major towns like Pereira, Armenia, and Manizales are in good condition, and driving allows for stops in smaller towns and rural areas where public transport is less frequent.

Whether you’re arriving by air or exploring by road, the Colombian Coffee Region is well-prepared to welcome tourists, offering a variety of travel options to suit different preferences and itineraries.

Where to Eat in the Colombia Coffee Region

• Equidistant from both Pijao and Buena Vista, Cafe Concorde has great food and an even better view. Pricey by local standards but high quality.
• With Jardín’s flourishing tourism industry there is a lot of variety and a lot of quality restaurants. Try Consulado Vegetale, this vegetarian restaurant is delicious and reasonably priced.
• For a more traditional meal in Jardín you can’t go past the regional favourite, Bandeja Paisa, we thoroughly enjoyed the one we got from Restaurante El Mesón Paisa a huge platter (enough for 2) of rice, frijoles, fries, chorizo, egg, avocado, arepa, and plantain for $5 USD.
• Follow the locals. Avoid the tourist traps and eat whereever you see the most locals pulling up a stool.

Where to Drink in the Colombia Coffee Region

• It’s coffee country so let’s talk coffee. The cafes surrounding the central plazas of these towns are all serving coffee sourced directly from local farmers. Take a cafe crawl to find your perfect one.
• In Pijao, we highly recommend Café De Origen La Floresta for a coffee-drinking experience that shames even Melbourne’s hippest cafés. You won’t find options here just pick one of the three beans on offer and enjoy it ‘neat’ along with an explanation about the coffee’s background and flavor profile, just $2.50 a cup.
• Chasing something a bit stronger? In the towns there is only one choice…do how the locals do. After a long day working on the farm (or, in your case, drinking coffee and taking photos), head to the town plaza and pick a bar. Cheap beers and colorful locals, what else do you need?

Best Places to Stay in the Colombia Coffee Region

Finca Hotel el Guadual $

This hotel offers some of the best value accommodations in Quimbaya. It has an outdoor swimming pool, a garden, a shared lounge, and a terrace. Private rooms start under $20.

Vivienda Turistica Yerbabuena $

For a more communal experience, consider this charming lodge featuring a garden, shared lounge, and views of the mountain in Filandia. Private rooms from $24.

Hotel Rural San Remo $$

Located in Santa Rosa de Cabal, this farm stay offers comfortable accommodation, superb service, and a beautiful view of the mountains. Rooms start at $60 per night.

Hotel Casa Campestre $$

The Hotel Casa Campestre offers affordable and comfortable rooms for 2 – 4 people. It offers bed and breakfast-style lodging close to Pamaca and the Ukumari Zoo. Rooms start at $35 per night.

Sonesta Hotel Pereira $$$

If you’re looking for a modern hotel experience Sonesta offers an outdoor swimming pool, an on-site restaurant, a/c, cable TV, a mini-bar, tennis court and a fitness center. Rooms from $135.

Hacienda Venecia Coffee Farm Hotel $$$

Close to Manizales this farm stay is located in a lush plantation with coffee tours, hiking and birdwatching available on site. Rooms from $100.

Visus Hotel Boutique & Spa $$$$

For a luxurious stay consider the Visus a boutique hotel with outdoor pool and beautiful gardens. Rooms from $220.

Hotel Kawa Mountain Retreat $$$$

Located in Salento, overlooking the mountains this is one of the best stays in Colombia’s coffee region. Rooms from $180.

Hacienda Bambusa $$$$

Rustic luxury is in a jaw-dropping setting, the hacienda in El Caimo is beautifully appointed, and the service is impeccable. With an onsite restaurant and plenty to do on the property, including hiking, biking, and birdwatching, you won’t need to leave the resplendent grounds.

Overlanding or Camping?

Pull up by the river in Pijao and use this as a central base to explore the region. We felt safe, the locals were friendly, and the spot is tranquil and pretty.

Travel Tips

• Best Time to Visit: The dry seasons from December to February and from June to early September are ideal for visiting.
• Stay Connected: Consider purchasing a local SIM card for navigation and communication.
  • Major towns have a 4g internet connection or better; I worked without issues.
  • Smaller towns may have less reliable service
  • Wifi connectivity is common and fast.
• Accommodations: It’s advisable to book your accommodations in advance, especially during peak tourist seasons.

Final Thoughts on Colombia’s Coffee Region

Our final night in Jardín we sat outside a bar in the central plaza, watching the sun slowly set over the town. As the dark settled in , a funeral procession made its way slowly through the square with a full police guard and hearse. Silence fell over the entire plaza and we rose with the locals as the procession disappeared into the darkness.

We headed back to our car now located on a quiet street in town. The next day we would press on south for the salsa city of Cali, it would be a very long drive.

Colombia’s Coffee region is not to be missed but a love of coffee is not a pre-requisite. The stunning scenery, varied wildlife, unique culture and multitude of activities make this a fantastic area to explore. Some of the world’s best coffee is just a bonus.