Mompiche Ecuador, Everything You Need to Know Before You Go

Mompiche, on Ecuador’s Esmeraldas Coast remains one of our favorite places in South America. Of course, it is strikingly beautiful like much of Ecuador’s coast but it’s more than that. The small and secluded village has an authentic quality and a laid-back atmosphere that we have only found in a few other places.

A tiny fishing village with a dirt road, a great wave, a handful of restaurants and hostels, and a picturesque beach bordered by a virgin jungle. Mompiche has everything needed for a basic but serene get-away, without frills or distractions.

Tucked away on Ecuador’s northern coast, Mompiche is picture-perfect. It is bordered by the rainforest that tumbles from the mountains behind it and a flotilla of colorful fishing boats bobbing in the sea in front. It is also home to a long point break that peels left off the southern point of the scenic bay.

After our time in the drizzly mountains around Baños, we were excited to return to the warm Pacific coast. Mompiche appeared to be just the sleepy little village we were looking for.

Our long drive back to the coast took us past Ecuador’s capital, Quito, where we took the opportunity to re-supply. It was a beautiful but lengthy drive from Quito, snaking up, down, and along mountain ridges lined with tropical forest and banana plantations. Descending the volcanic ranges of Pichincha, we found ourselves trapped behind a procession of semi-trailers winding slowly down the range. After a full day of driving, we finally arrived in the tiny village.

Mompiche does not have much going on. A couple of tiendas selling basic groceries. A handful of restaurants and beach bars. Some hotels and hostels. And, of course, the fishmonger, selling the haul that the fishermen return with every morning. And that’s about all.

There is a trickle of wifi and essentially no mobile network here. Unable to work in any meaningful way, we took the opportunity to stow the laptops and properly unwind in Mompiche.

What to Do in Mompiche

There’s not a lot ‘going on’ here, but theres plenty to do. Relax on the beach. Walk along Mompiche Beach (Playa de Mompiche). Visit the black sands of Playa del Negra. Sunbathe. Explore the jungle, Rent a surfboard and head to the southern point to catch a wave and rub shoulders with the locals.

Here are a few of the best things to do in Mompiche:

Surf in Mompiche

The surf is renowned. Wave after wave peels off the rocky headland. There was ample action for the handful of locals and surf tourists out the back, and a few like us practiced closer to shore.

When we were there, the swell was clean and small enough for a couple of beginners to practice on. Despite the continuing grey skies and occasional drizzle typical of this time of year, the warm, blue water of the tropical Pacific doesn’t fluctuate much. The water was a comfortable 25°C.

You can rent boards and organize lessons from one of a few surf shops scattered throughout the village.

Discover Playa del Negra, Ecuador’s Black Beach

Playa del Negra is about one kilometer south of Mompiche Beach. It is an open beach with pitch-black sand. Wild, windswept, and littered with driftwood, usually you’ll have the beach to yourself, save for a surfer or two who come to beat the ‘crowd’ at Mompiche. Take a couple of beers and a rug and watch the sunset from this remarkable beach.

Go Camping in Mompiche

We camped at this idyllic, hidden spot for four nights. Every day, after a leisurely breakfast, we drove down into the town. Then we would surf for a few hours before finding some seafood for lunch.

We spent evenings at our campsite, cooking and watching the fishing boats return home as the sunset over the Pacific was perfect.

Hike Through the Jungle

Take a guided walk through the dense jungle that surrounds Mompiche. Discover the secrets of the forest with local guide Ramon, who shares his intimate knowledge of the area and the flora and fauna that exist here.

Explore the Mangroves

The mangroves around Mompiche make up a vast network. Hire a boat from Mompiche to take through the natural maze and see the aquatic life and birdlife.

Visit Isla Portete

Take a moto-taxi from Mompiche five kilometers south to the river and pay the boatmen to take you across the narrow river to Isla Portete. Enjoy one of Ecuador’s most beautiful and tranquil beaches.

Spot Turtles Hatching

Between September and November you might catch turtles hatching on Isla Portete.

Visit Isla Júpiter

Further south from Isla Portete and reachable by boat is Isla Júpiter, a small islet with sandbanks and crystal clear turquoise water. A paradise and natural sanctuary for different fish, birdlife and dolphins. It is possible to explore by yourself after paying for a boat ride, or organising a more in depth tour with a local guide.

Visit Secret Garden

With regular events, workshops, classes andf evening meals, secret garden often has something going on, check their facebook for more information.

Take a Kayak on a Self-Guided Adventure

Through the mangroves to Isla portete or Isla Jupiter, there are many places around Mompiche perfect for exploring by kayak.

Sample Fresh Encocado de Pescado

Ecuadorian pescado encocado or fish with coconut sauce is a coastal classic here and with ample access to fresh fish, this is the perfect place to try it.

Whale Watching

Between July and September, whales cruise by the coast here on their annual migration, and the high cliffs around Mompiche are perfect for whale watching. Alternatively chase down a tour for a closer look.

Deep Sea Fishing

Mompiche is primarily a fishing village, so it makes sense that it is a great place to go fishing. Hire a local fisherman to take you on a deep-sea fishing expedition.

Where to Eat in Mompiche

Considering how small it is, Mompiche has plenty of restaurants to choose from. You’ll easily be able to find your new favorite lunch spot by wandering around. Follow your nose. There are a couple of more expensive restaurants on the main drag aimed at tourists. But we recommend exploring some of the shabbier-looking restaurants where the locals are eating to get better food at a much better price. Here are some recommendations to get you started.

Fresh Off the Boat

Grab fresh fish straight off the incoming fishing boats from the monger at the end of the beach and cook yourself up a feast for few dollars.

La Chocolate

This low-key family-run restaurant and bar is well known for its generous portions, delicious salads, sandwiches, and desserts, as well as friendly service.

Secret Garden

The Secret Garden is a sustainable eco-guest house that also offers vegan breakfasts and meals; get in touch via WhatsApp to book.

Panaderia Y Pasteleria

For a cheap breakfast, the bakery or panaderia on the main street serves up cheap pastries and real espresso coffee.

Green Burger

If your looking to switch it up from local seafood, Green Burger does a great American style burger and some other fast food classics.

Street Food

On the weekends, the food hawkers often set up carts on the esplanade serving up cheap and delicious empanadas, ceviche (fried balls of plantain and fish), and street meat.

Mompiche’s Bars and NightLife

This is not a party town. They shut it down early on the weeknights here, so enjoy the vibes most ‘tranquillo’. That being said, there are a couple of bars along the main drag and a few more along the esplanade that have a friendly atmosphere and cold cocktails. Here are a couple to get you started;

Plankton Bar

This classic beachside cocktail bar is a great place to grab a drink and watch the waves.

GoodVibes

This bar inside Hostel MudHouse has great cocktails, friendly staff, and weekly events.

Accommodation: Where to Stay in Mompiche

The Best Hotels, Hostels and Campgrounds in Mompiche Ecuador

Accomodation in Mompiche is mostly made up of basic cabanas, hostels, and bed and breakfast style accomodation. You won’t find a Marriott or Hilton here.

Maracumbo Camping Hostel

Does Mompiche sound too busy to you? Escape the ‘bustle’ and bring your tent and camp or book a room at the Maracumbo Camping Hostel just out of town. Tents stat from $8 while rooms cost between $20 and $50 per night

Mudhouse Hostel Mompiche

This eco-hostel offers comfortable, basic bamboo cabanas and a chilled-out vibe, all just minutes from the beach. Dorm beds start around $9 while privates will run you between $20 and $30.

Mompiche Island Hostel

Mompiche Island Hostel offers simple but comfortable rooms with modern facilities right on the beach.

Royal Decameron

While you may not find a Marriott in Mompiche, the Royal Decameron Mompiche offers an all-inclusive resort experience in an idyllic setting.

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Overlanding and Free Camping in Mompiche

Check out one of our favorite campsites in South America. It’s gorgeous, private, and protected. We can’t guarantee the gate won’t be locked, you won’t be moved on, or you will make it up the hill (although if our little van Pablo did, you probably will too). But if you can stay, you will thank us.

After staying at Hidden House Hostel (now closed) in the village for two days, we left in search of a campsite where we might extend our stay. After striking out at a couple of beachfront roads and properties, a German traveler told us of a secret spot nearby. An unused dirt road behind an unlocked metal gate was around the headland to the south. This road took us to a headland overlooking the neighboring Playa del Negra to the south and the cliffs and coves of Mompiche’s headland to the north. We followed his advice, and despite some incredibly steep sections, our little van Pablo was able to navigate the dirt track.

Balanced on a skinny headland, providing spectacular 270-degree views of the Pacific in front, the black sands of Playa del Negra to the south, the dramatic cliffs of Mompiche to the north, and the jungle-covered hinterland behind. Before the headland, the road dips down behind the bluff. Here a flat area offers a campsite with great protection from the wind and a view through the strangler figs and vines to the rocky coves and beaches to the north. Perfection.

How to Get to Mompiche

Mompiche can be reached by private vehicle or bus but the journey is looong. Bordered to the south by an ecological reserve, Mompiche has to be accessed from the north. The closest hub is Atacamas.

Atacamas to Mompiche

Atacamas, a beach town north of Mompiche, is the closest hub.

Three different bus companies have services that run between Atacamas and Mompiche and services run about six times a day. buses cost between $3 and $5.

You can also catch a taxi from Atacamas to Mompiche for around $25.

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Quito to Mompiche

There is no direct bus route from Quito to Mompiche. You will need to hop on a bus to Atacamas and then transfer in Atacamas to a bus for Mompiche. The total trip should take just shy of ten hours.

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If you have your own vehicle, the drive from Quito takes approximately seven hours. Driving in Ecuador is safe when proper precautions are taken. The roads that descend from Quito to the coast are also used by large trucks that descend slowly. Don’t get impatient and overtake on an unbroken line as we did or risk a ticket or worse an accident. The police pulled us over for overtaking. Finally, the rampant police corruption worked in our favor for once. We were on our way after paying a small bribe.

Connectivity

• Mobile internet: As at April 2024, Mompiche doesn’t get super fast mobile internet with many places in town only getting a 3 g connection.
• Wifi: Wifi is slow in Mompiche, and mobile internet offers better speed.
• Stay up to date on available coverage with NPERF’s global network coverage maps.

Planning on visiting Mompiche? Or have you already been? What did you think? Let us know in the comments below!